Here is one vote for brakes as the worst system to repair on a vehicle. The rigid, metal lines are uncooperative, the fittings routinely strip and watching undercarriage paint retreat from leaking brake fluid is health ominous. Yelling in frustration at your tired, pedal pumping wife during the bleeding process is also detrimental to happy travels.
Rigid metal brake lines snake through your undercarriage, meet at numerous junctions and terminate at each wheel. Repair sections can be purchased pre-bent from any Land Rover parts supplier. If you live in a harsh environment, stainless steel can also be specified to eliminate corrosion; the number one cause of brake line failure. I recommend adding up the cost of the bits you need - if you are looking to replace an entire system this is a convenient but expensive solution.
As an alternative, I ordered bulk line and fittings to complete the repairs myself. I also picked up a well reviewed flaring tool to address this difficult aspect of the job. I will admit the initial cost savings are minimal, but with all the bits I need at hand future repairs will be quick and inexpensive.
The internet is a great source for how-to’s on making up brake lines. I measured with a string and used the leaky, cracked or corroded bits of pipe as a template for the bends. Read on for a list of what I ordered for my 1984 Land Rover 110, and some notes on my experiences:
While expensive, Copper-Nickel brake line offers two advantages over the steel and stainless steel alternatives. Firstly, it is corrosion proof on both the interior and exterior of the pipe. Secondly, it is incredibly easy to bend and flare.
Steel or stainless steel brake line will pinch and crack with any application of force. It is unforgiving. In the past I have filled it with sand in an effort to prevent pinch cracks - frustrating. Brake line bending tools are a solution but offer one radius of bend and are useless for multiple bends in close proximity. Copper-Nickel, on the other hand, is a joy.
I hand formed my Copper-Nickel line using wrench sockets of varying diameter held fixed by a socket extension in a bench vice. If you maintain contact with the socket side and apply smooth, constant force bends of varying degrees and proximities are quick and simple. Even small corrections are possible. During the install process, I was also able to fine-tune pipe mating by making small hand corrections. Amazing stuff.
I purchased my pipe and fittings from FedHill USA Everything I needed was in stock and shipped quick. Their website is also a great resource if you have any questions regarding fittings, flare types, etc.
The SUR&R HFT50 flaring tool proved ituitive and simple to use. Out of the box, my first two flares were cosmetically perfect and sealed without issue. The orange storage box includes adapters for various pipe diameters and produces both SAE and DIN flares for both male and female fittings. While not the most inexpensive kit - I recommend it based on the quality of the tool and the results.